October 31 - November 2 Lucknow

October 31 – To Lucknow

 

I spent the day working from the hotel, but the day wasn’t without adventure as I flew to Lucknow that evening to meet with some friends from Denver also visiting India.  It was an experience being the only foreigner on a domestic flight.

 

Before I left my hotel in Delhi, I had some clothes laundered.  They came back folded nicely, but very damp, and I needed them dry because I was leaving shortly to Lucknow.  So, I resorted to drying them with the hair dryer.  That went reasonably well, and the hair dryer held up until I had one sock left, and then quit.  I thought it would be too weird if a bald man went to the front desk asking for a new hair dryer, so I let the last sock air dry. 

 

I got to Lucknow late in the evening safe and sound and it was great to see some friends from home.  Here is the front of the hotel in Lucknow.

 

November 1 – Lucknow

 

We spent the day touring Lucknow.  At one stop, one of my American friends took a mis-step into the gutter running alongside the street.  Trust me, not where you want to step.  This brought the whole neighborhood out to watch from their doorways, balconies, and rooftops with concerned looks.  Here is a shot of the clean-up effort.

 

During the day, a few members of the group received temporary tattoos, I believe called “Henna.”  The artist amazingly produced this in less than 10 minutes. 

 

I saw my first wild mongoose in Lucknow, but it bolted away before I could get a picture.  Not surprisingly, wherever mongooses are present, there are no snakes.

 

After lunch, we headed to the market.  All kinds of people and merchants were everywhere and we felt quite foreign.  But, we attended to our shopping like everyone else with no more than a few thousand curious stares. 

 

We then moved on to Ambedkar Park, otherwise known as the “Elephant Park,” built from 1995-2007 by the former Chief Minister of Uttar Pradesh (the state in which Lucknow sits).  It is 107 acres of monuments and ornate structures, and the entire floor is solid granite, like the countertops in many American homes.  Think of it – 107 acres of granite flooring.  It also has about 50 elephants, each 15-20 feet high carved out of a solid block of marble.  I didn’t know marble came in elephant-sized chunks.  Ten thousand people worked on it every day during its construction.  The pictures do not do it justice, but here are a few.

Next, we went to a nice restaurant for some great Indian food and then it was back to the Maple Leaf Hotel for some sleep.

 

November 2 – Back to Delhi

 

The next afternoon, I headed back to the airport after dropping my friends off at the train station.  They were heading to Agra to tour the Taj Majal, and then go back to Denver on Tuesday.  The train station was extremely busy and we wound our way through the crowd with luggage for several hundred yards before reaching their car.  Because they booked their tickets early, they would have a place to sit for the 6-hour, 230-mile journey.  Booking last minute would have meant standing room only.  The cars are so crowded that people stand and sit on the steps in the doorways, which are not closed.  People even cling to the handrails on the outside of the train adjacent to the doors, sometimes with only enough room for one foot at a time on the steps.  Amazingly, some of the trips can take a couple of days, and so people often ride this way for hours and hours.

 

The train station

At the airport, I obtained my boarding pass and went through security.  My boarding pass had Gate 4 printed on it, but a few minutes before boarding time, they switched the flight to Gate 5.  After a rough landing in Delhi where we seemed to careen down the runway for a few seconds, we exited onto the tarmac and got on a bus to take us to the terminal.  Apparently, we had landed at the international terminal although our flight was domestic.  All this made me think again about how things in India seldom turn out how I expect, from gate changes at the airport, to wet laundry, to unexpected stops on tours, to standing for hours on the train, to leaky showers, to ants in the bathroom.  But those are small things. Then there are the big issues of millions living on one or two meals a day at best and without consistent access to basics like electricity, running water, housing, education, and medical services. It is an environment that forces you to “expect the unexpected” and be adaptable and flexible on a moment-by-moment basis, and to think of solutions to problems that you didn’t know existed just a few minutes before.